Obyron, Lord of Hugs

I finally finished the last of Lovell’s models that the Kingbreakers had captured—Vargard Obyron, Lord of Hugs:

obyron obyron-back

Nothing too fancy here.  The overall style is to match the Overlords I did for Lovell some time back, but to have more of an “enforcer” feel. I really like the Necron fluff overall, but Obyron has a particular bit of pathos to him. From GW’s sales writeup:

Vargard Obyron is aide and protector of Nemesor Zahndrekh, and has stood steadfast as his side from their very first campaign. Unlike his master, Obyron is very much aware of the changes wrought upon their existence, but has long since abandoned any attempt to awaken Zahndrekh to reality. So, like any dedicated servant, Obyron attends to all the loose ends created by Zahndrekh’s eccentricities, chief of which are seeing to it that ‘honoured’ prisoners of war are ‘killed whilst trying to escape’, and that upstart Lords of the Royal Court are either silenced or disposed of.

Obyron’s a good model rules-wise and sees a lot of play, so I expect to be frustrated by this guy teleporting a whole bunch of his fellow automatons safely out of a critical combat at some point in the near future…

Unrelated in theme but related in my continuing quest to finish all the loose models wandering around my painting table, you can never have enough tactical sergeants:

sergeant

This guy’s been on the painting table for a long time, been through several repaints, etc., so the helmet in particular lost a lot of detail. But I really like the pose, particularly from the back where the lean is accentuated by the angle of the prayer sticks and whatnot. Too often all the various bits on 40k multi-part models don’t really make sense with how the model is ostensibly moving.

The Fury of a Dying Race—Eldar Detachment!

After a couple years of threatening, I finally put together some Eldar!

Over the dust of a thousand worlds shall we ever chase the slaves of the foul ones.

Over the dust of a thousand worlds shall we ever chase the slaves of the foul ones.

I just finished the Autarch, but the two squads of Guardians and small pack of Windriders I’ve completed have actually already hit the tables a couple times. These are some beauty shots and notes on the process I’ve developed for them, which goes really fast but produces nice results.

Autarch

Playing around among my piles of unassembled plastic, I somehow got the base for a Wraithlord mixed up with that for the Autarch. I couldn’t fathom why a T3 infantry model had such a huge diameter but accepted it as GW proclaiming “Yo, space elves are the biggest and baddestest!” So then I started thinking about how to fill up all that space and came up with this little scene.

autarch-front-blue autarch-side-blue autarch-back-blue

This mini-diorama was quick to do, and though simple I like it a lot. It exemplifies much of the appeal of 40k for me, in that even this tiny vignette has a story. What just happened? Maybe they’ve been brawling and the Autarch just got the upper hand, knocking the Chaos Marine down and leaping into the air to strike down with the death blow. But how’s it going to play out? The 41st millenium is a dangerous place where anything can happen. Does the Autarch see the hastily wielded ritual blade coming at him? Is he shooting just in time with his fusion pistol? Who knows, but either way there’s a lot of backstory and possibilities just in this one little scene.

Fortunately I eventually realized that I’d switched the bases, but I was already committed to executing the scene. Everything is magnetized though such that the Autarch can be played on his standard smaller base. Unfortunately the magnetization scheme isn’t great. The size of magnets I used is not quite strong enough under a couple layers of paint to really lock the Autarch in place; you can’t hold the base at funny angles or he’ll fall off. However, the arrangement does let me break everything down for transport in a standard Chessex figure case, as well as swivel the Autarch around so that he can have a more level pose when not diving onto the poor traitor. If I had to do it again though I would use poles and tubes instead of magnets, carefully setting tubes in the two bases at the appropriate angles to enable the slightly different angles of attack.

magnetized autarch-smallbase-blue

This is actually the first Chaos Marine I’ve painted, so that was kind of fun as well. I have an older box of them for which the casting doesn’t seem super crisp, and I didn’t want to spend a ton of time detailing him either, so he’s fairly basic but fine as a simple display base. The only real work I did was a bunch of cutting and repositioning of the wrists and elbows to get this pose of being knocked down and thrusting backward with a blade held upside-down.

base-blue

Dude-Bros

Working on these guys I’ve focused on just getting them done. I’ve consciously not done a lot of detailing, and have a whole methodology to crank them out. The 20 Guardians and 3 Windriders I did from shrink wrap to finished in the course of just a couple evenings in order to have them ready for one of our club events.

squad-blue

The process is basically as follows.

Prep

  • Unsprue a set and scrape off the mold lines.
  • Cut the guns off the hands.
  • Assemble the bodies minus heads and guns, positioning the arms with a gun but not gluing it in place.
  • Put bodies, heads, and guns on bamboo skewers with alligator clips and shove each set of components into a foam block. Any chunk of leftover trash foam from packaging or such is ideal.
  • Spray prime those components white.

Painting

  • Airbrush each component the appropriate color; I used Vallejo Game Air:
    • Bodies are first coated in Imperial Blue, then another layer in Electric Blue.  The Imperial Blue gives a nice deep base color quickly, but if I’m feeling fancy I can do the Electric Blue from an elevated angle and give some depth gradient and shadowing to the models via the two shades and the natural airbrush blend between them.  This is fairly subtle though and only shows up if you look closely at those models.
    • Guns and heads are coated Stonewall Grey.
  • A few bits get picked out with quick brushwork, e.g., Leadbelcher metal for grenades and tubing.
  • Wash all the components:
    • Bodies in Drakenhoff Nightshade.
    • Guns and heads in Secret Weapon Soft Body Black.
  • Do the eyes on the helmets in Electric Blue. I just use the airbrush paint for this, I think the thinness of it works with the black wash to give it some shading and a slight glow effect.

Bases

  • Bases are covered in a mix of terrain gravel and crumbled leftover plaster.
  • They’re then spray primed black.
  • Dry brush the bases dark gray, light gray, then white in increasingly lighter strokes.
  • Then they’re washed in Secret Weapon Soft Body Black.

Finishing

  • The components all get carefully glued together. I pool out some plastic cement on scrap paper and then brush it in place with an old, dead brush in order to avoid risking glue running all over.
  • The finished models get sealed. The spray I’ve been using is labeled as a dull coat, but actually leaves a fair bit of sheen so it works well for the Eldar (less well for my Marines).

Putting all that in writing seems like a ton of steps, but it’s actually a really fast process that produces consistent, tabletop worthy figures. In particular, having the components separated by color and on skewers on the blocks makes them really easy to work with and is much faster to prep than temporarily pinning or gluing to bottle tops as many do. With the sprays and airbrushing I can do a whole block at once pretty easy. Then picking out the details and so on I just slide a skewer out of the block, do some brushwork, and slide it back into the block. It’s a minor thing, but it makes working with the individual bits really quick and clean, no messing around trying to hold one part while brushing another, getting paint on my fingers, holding them to dry before putting them down on the table, and so on.

Bodies ready to be primed.

Bodies ready to be primed.

Bodies done.

Bodies done.

Heads done.

Heads done.

Bases being textured. Nearly all the gravel piled on will shake off and be scooped back into a cup to be used again later (use a clean sheet of scrap paper under them to help with this).

Bases being textured. Nearly all the gravel piled on will shake off and be scooped back into a cup to be used again later (use a clean sheet of scrap paper under them to help with this).

Bases drybrushed.

Bases drybrushed.

Of course there’s other steps in reality, like doing the sergeant’s head or brushing the sensor stalks grey for the second squad. But I’m pleased with both the process and how these aliens turned out. I’ve also been pleasantly surprised with how they’ve performed allied up with my Kingbreakers Space Marines, so I’m excited to continue fleshing out my Eldar army and getting them on the table.

sergeant-blue jetbike-blue troopers-blue

Deathwatch: Overkill Card Boxes

Games Workshop’s new game Deathwatch: Overkill comes with a ton of amazing components. But it doesn’t come with boxes to keep the two different decks of cards organized. Here you can download templates to print, cut out, and assemble to create appropriately sized tuckboxes for them.

The tuckbox pattern is by Craig Forbes. The art is of course by Games Workshop.

Assembly

The basic materials needed are printouts of the two PDFs, a sharp hobby knife, a straightedge, and a cutting board. Ideally the PDFs are printed onto thick paper or cardstock and cut out directly from there. Otherwise you will also need some cardstock and either spray adhesive or rubber cement. You may also find a pair of scissors handy, as well as a black permanent marker and packing tape. When printing the PDFs, make sure to print at 100%, no scaling. The margins are sufficient that no downsizing should be necessary on any printer.

Though not necessary, if you roughly cut out the two designs you can then affix them to a single sheet of cardstock. They are not arranged as such on the PDFs because they won’t fit within the margins most printers require.

Spray adhesive and rubber cement should be used in well ventilated spaces. Make sure to press down and lightly rub the designs with a clean paper towel or cloth to ensure good contact and no air bubbles.

Using a straight edge, cut out along all the straight black lines of the perimeter of the design. Then carefully cut out the curved segments. Using a fresh hobby knife should make this easy, requiring only a single pass. Then, again using the straight edge, cut the shorter interior lines freeing the top and bottom flaps. Looking at the pattern reference on the printed page, all of the red lines are cuts to be made.

With the straight edge, next lightly score all of the fold lines by gently stroking the knife along them. Be sure to only cut the very top surface of the paper. There are a number of scores to make. Faint white dashed lines on the designs provide guides for the actual action, but look at the blue dashed lines on the pattern reference to see where they all are. Once all the scores have been made, carefully fold and then unfold the pieces to set the shape.

Finally, put glue on the flap on the right and press it against the inside of the left panel. This is probably easiest with rubber cement. Once this has dried, fold the top and bottom panels in to make a box. Success!

An additional, optional step to make from this point is to use a permanent marker to black out the white edges along the folds, making the final product look sharper. You may also want to use packing tape to strengthen the edges of the boxes, especially if you made the fold scores too deep and they start tearing apart.