Military Orders Reinforcements

military-orders-iconRapidly approaching three years ago I bought some Infinity models and a 14-figure case. Everybody said you only need 10–12 models, right? Should be good…

Last night I painted two more models to put my Military Orders at 16 figures painted so far, when you include the Fusiliers and AUXBOT support. I want to put together and paint a couple remotes before doing a full gallery, but this is as good a time as any to record my process again.

Order Sergeant with Spitfire.

Order Sergeant with Spitfire.

Crusader Brethren with HMG.

Crusader Brethren with HMG.

The sequence for my Military Orders goes like this:

  • Fully assemble (as opposed to partially, as I paint many 40k models)
  • Greenstuff the base to fill in slot, support model, add texture
  • Spray prime white
  • Torso armor, backpack, robes, face mask in Averland Sunset (2+ coats)
  • Arms and legs in Ceramite White
  • Pick out pouches, plates and exo-armor on arms & legs in Dheneb Stone
  • Gun bodies and holsters in Codex Grey
  • Metal bits in Leadbelcher
  • Gun highlights (heavy power cells, etc) in Brass Scorpion
  • Wash all yellow parts in Casandora Yellow (2+ coats in depths & face mask)
  • Wash gun, holster, and large metal pieces in Soft Body Black
  • Wash all white & stone parts in Seraphim Sepia
  • Base top in Ordic Olive
  • Cover base in (fake) lichen
  • Wash lichen & base in Athonian Camoshade
  • Base rim in Abaddon Black (2 coats)
  • Order Sergeants get eyes in Enchanted Blue; knights get Mephiston Red eyes
  • Paint the back half arc of the base rim in Mephiston Red
  • Matte spray seal

Somewhat more colors than I was originally hoping, but I like the outcome a lot and it’s still fairly quick to do.

All the paints for my Military Orders scheme.

All the paints for my Military Orders scheme.

Obyron, Lord of Hugs

I finally finished the last of Lovell’s models that the Kingbreakers had captured—Vargard Obyron, Lord of Hugs:

obyron obyron-back

Nothing too fancy here.  The overall style is to match the Overlords I did for Lovell some time back, but to have more of an “enforcer” feel. I really like the Necron fluff overall, but Obyron has a particular bit of pathos to him. From GW’s sales writeup:

Vargard Obyron is aide and protector of Nemesor Zahndrekh, and has stood steadfast as his side from their very first campaign. Unlike his master, Obyron is very much aware of the changes wrought upon their existence, but has long since abandoned any attempt to awaken Zahndrekh to reality. So, like any dedicated servant, Obyron attends to all the loose ends created by Zahndrekh’s eccentricities, chief of which are seeing to it that ‘honoured’ prisoners of war are ‘killed whilst trying to escape’, and that upstart Lords of the Royal Court are either silenced or disposed of.

Obyron’s a good model rules-wise and sees a lot of play, so I expect to be frustrated by this guy teleporting a whole bunch of his fellow automatons safely out of a critical combat at some point in the near future…

Unrelated in theme but related in my continuing quest to finish all the loose models wandering around my painting table, you can never have enough tactical sergeants:

sergeant

This guy’s been on the painting table for a long time, been through several repaints, etc., so the helmet in particular lost a lot of detail. But I really like the pose, particularly from the back where the lean is accentuated by the angle of the prayer sticks and whatnot. Too often all the various bits on 40k multi-part models don’t really make sense with how the model is ostensibly moving.

The Fury of a Dying Race—Eldar Detachment!

After a couple years of threatening, I finally put together some Eldar!

Over the dust of a thousand worlds shall we ever chase the slaves of the foul ones.

Over the dust of a thousand worlds shall we ever chase the slaves of the foul ones.

I just finished the Autarch, but the two squads of Guardians and small pack of Windriders I’ve completed have actually already hit the tables a couple times. These are some beauty shots and notes on the process I’ve developed for them, which goes really fast but produces nice results.

Autarch

Playing around among my piles of unassembled plastic, I somehow got the base for a Wraithlord mixed up with that for the Autarch. I couldn’t fathom why a T3 infantry model had such a huge diameter but accepted it as GW proclaiming “Yo, space elves are the biggest and baddestest!” So then I started thinking about how to fill up all that space and came up with this little scene.

autarch-front-blue autarch-side-blue autarch-back-blue

This mini-diorama was quick to do, and though simple I like it a lot. It exemplifies much of the appeal of 40k for me, in that even this tiny vignette has a story. What just happened? Maybe they’ve been brawling and the Autarch just got the upper hand, knocking the Chaos Marine down and leaping into the air to strike down with the death blow. But how’s it going to play out? The 41st millenium is a dangerous place where anything can happen. Does the Autarch see the hastily wielded ritual blade coming at him? Is he shooting just in time with his fusion pistol? Who knows, but either way there’s a lot of backstory and possibilities just in this one little scene.

Fortunately I eventually realized that I’d switched the bases, but I was already committed to executing the scene. Everything is magnetized though such that the Autarch can be played on his standard smaller base. Unfortunately the magnetization scheme isn’t great. The size of magnets I used is not quite strong enough under a couple layers of paint to really lock the Autarch in place; you can’t hold the base at funny angles or he’ll fall off. However, the arrangement does let me break everything down for transport in a standard Chessex figure case, as well as swivel the Autarch around so that he can have a more level pose when not diving onto the poor traitor. If I had to do it again though I would use poles and tubes instead of magnets, carefully setting tubes in the two bases at the appropriate angles to enable the slightly different angles of attack.

magnetized autarch-smallbase-blue

This is actually the first Chaos Marine I’ve painted, so that was kind of fun as well. I have an older box of them for which the casting doesn’t seem super crisp, and I didn’t want to spend a ton of time detailing him either, so he’s fairly basic but fine as a simple display base. The only real work I did was a bunch of cutting and repositioning of the wrists and elbows to get this pose of being knocked down and thrusting backward with a blade held upside-down.

base-blue

Dude-Bros

Working on these guys I’ve focused on just getting them done. I’ve consciously not done a lot of detailing, and have a whole methodology to crank them out. The 20 Guardians and 3 Windriders I did from shrink wrap to finished in the course of just a couple evenings in order to have them ready for one of our club events.

squad-blue

The process is basically as follows.

Prep

  • Unsprue a set and scrape off the mold lines.
  • Cut the guns off the hands.
  • Assemble the bodies minus heads and guns, positioning the arms with a gun but not gluing it in place.
  • Put bodies, heads, and guns on bamboo skewers with alligator clips and shove each set of components into a foam block. Any chunk of leftover trash foam from packaging or such is ideal.
  • Spray prime those components white.

Painting

  • Airbrush each component the appropriate color; I used Vallejo Game Air:
    • Bodies are first coated in Imperial Blue, then another layer in Electric Blue.  The Imperial Blue gives a nice deep base color quickly, but if I’m feeling fancy I can do the Electric Blue from an elevated angle and give some depth gradient and shadowing to the models via the two shades and the natural airbrush blend between them.  This is fairly subtle though and only shows up if you look closely at those models.
    • Guns and heads are coated Stonewall Grey.
  • A few bits get picked out with quick brushwork, e.g., Leadbelcher metal for grenades and tubing.
  • Wash all the components:
    • Bodies in Drakenhoff Nightshade.
    • Guns and heads in Secret Weapon Soft Body Black.
  • Do the eyes on the helmets in Electric Blue. I just use the airbrush paint for this, I think the thinness of it works with the black wash to give it some shading and a slight glow effect.

Bases

  • Bases are covered in a mix of terrain gravel and crumbled leftover plaster.
  • They’re then spray primed black.
  • Dry brush the bases dark gray, light gray, then white in increasingly lighter strokes.
  • Then they’re washed in Secret Weapon Soft Body Black.

Finishing

  • The components all get carefully glued together. I pool out some plastic cement on scrap paper and then brush it in place with an old, dead brush in order to avoid risking glue running all over.
  • The finished models get sealed. The spray I’ve been using is labeled as a dull coat, but actually leaves a fair bit of sheen so it works well for the Eldar (less well for my Marines).

Putting all that in writing seems like a ton of steps, but it’s actually a really fast process that produces consistent, tabletop worthy figures. In particular, having the components separated by color and on skewers on the blocks makes them really easy to work with and is much faster to prep than temporarily pinning or gluing to bottle tops as many do. With the sprays and airbrushing I can do a whole block at once pretty easy. Then picking out the details and so on I just slide a skewer out of the block, do some brushwork, and slide it back into the block. It’s a minor thing, but it makes working with the individual bits really quick and clean, no messing around trying to hold one part while brushing another, getting paint on my fingers, holding them to dry before putting them down on the table, and so on.

Bodies ready to be primed.

Bodies ready to be primed.

Bodies done.

Bodies done.

Heads done.

Heads done.

Bases being textured. Nearly all the gravel piled on will shake off and be scooped back into a cup to be used again later (use a clean sheet of scrap paper under them to help with this).

Bases being textured. Nearly all the gravel piled on will shake off and be scooped back into a cup to be used again later (use a clean sheet of scrap paper under them to help with this).

Bases drybrushed.

Bases drybrushed.

Of course there’s other steps in reality, like doing the sergeant’s head or brushing the sensor stalks grey for the second squad. But I’m pleased with both the process and how these aliens turned out. I’ve also been pleasantly surprised with how they’ve performed allied up with my Kingbreakers Space Marines, so I’m excited to continue fleshing out my Eldar army and getting them on the table.

sergeant-blue jetbike-blue troopers-blue