Easy Modern/Future Ladders

In the course of working on new terrain for our LibertyHammer event, I needed some ladders. The scratchbuild method I came up with I have not previously seen and I think it works well, so this is a quick guide.

My goal was a ladder appropriate for modern or future settings, with a bulky, heavy look to match the giant bolts and chunky slabs aesthetic of the terrain (my current project is primarily meant for 40k). The big technical challenge was being able to build quickly while still having the ladder look very square.

What I came up with uses two kinds of styrene struts: 4.8mm I-beams (Plastruct #90545) and 2mmx4mm strips (Plastruct #90767). Other sizes could definitely be used, but these seem to work well and are commonly available.

I-beams.

I-beams.

Strips.

Strips.

The rails of the ladder are made by two I-beams cut to the length of the ladder. The ladder’s steps are strips cut to the intended width of the ladder minus the width of an I-beam. The ladder constructed here is 5.5″ long and just over 1″ wide.

These can of course be cut with a hobby knife. But if you’re doing a lot of scratchbuilding with styrene or wood strips and dowels, I highly recommend the Northwest Short Line Chopper or Chopper II. It’s a bit of a specialty tool as that’s all it can do, but it really makes this kind of work faster, easier, and more accurate.

Get to da choppa!

Get to da choppa!

All the pieces.

All the pieces.

For this ladder I spaced the rungs apart by half an inch, with a quarter inch offset at the top and bottom, so I had to cut 11 strips. The I-beams are easy to mark appropriately with a ball point pen for placing the strips accurately. Each strip is then glued into a side hollow of one I-beam rail. Superglue works well for this, it bonds well and sets very quickly but not instantly.

To get the strips aligned I used a hobby saw mitre box as a square. Basically anything will work, but I couldn’t find my actual drafting squares and the mitre box works well: It’s cut very square, with a sharp corner, and wet superglue wipes off the metal easily. Each strip just needs a dab of superglue on the end and then it’s slid into position in the I-beam. It’ll set well enough almost instantly to slide the whole construction along the square (mitre box in this case) to the next mark. To make things go faster, I glued the strips below the marks so I could just slide the marks right to the corner rather than trying to center or anything like that. This makes the ladder a little asymmetric top to bottom, but that’s fine and maybe even desirable.

Gluing in the strips on one side.

Gluing in the strips on one side.

One side completed.

One side completed.

After that it’s simply a question of putting a dab of glue on the unattached end of each strip and then sliding on the other I-beam rail. Some care should be taken to line it up with the other side, e.g., standing them both up on the table top to equalize one vertical end.

To the roof!

To the roof!

At this point the ladder itself is done, and for some applications might be totally ready to just lean up against a structure. I wanted to make the ladder a permanent part of this building though, and to stand off a bit from the side. So I cut some 2.5mm rod (Plastruct #90860) to quarter inch lengths. These were superglued to the rails standing up, and then glued to the structure with tacky PVA.

Gluing pegs to the rails.

Gluing pegs to the rails.

And then to the structure.

And then to the structure.

That’s it! This construction is very quick, and very easy to get a nice, square ladder. Compared to just using strips, the I-beams approach takes no more effort, but gives a bit more texture and bulk to the look while also enabling a stronger build as the superglue can bond both the end and side of the strip against the I-beam. I hope you found this useful, and welcome any questions or suggestions!

The finished ladder on the work-in-progress structure.

The finished ladder on the work-in-progress structure.

To Infinity!

A year and a half after painting up a half squad, I finally got in my first game of Infinity. Our PAGE Infinity Get Started Day seemed successful, with a bunch of newcomers showing up alongside the Sunday regulars at Redcap’s for over 16 people playing or watching. A few more photos are in the gallery.

Infinity-Logo

To Infinity... and beyond! (that will never get old)

To Infinity… and beyond! (that will never get old)

I’ve been sick and had told Caitlin I’d be home early so I only got in one game, but it was a solid learning experience. Colin’s Ariadna Highlanders partnered up with my PanOceania Military Orders to fight Steve’s… Haqqislam? Nomads? I have no idea. They were painted in typical Nomads colors but my impression is he’s only ever talked about playing Haqqislam. It… feels a little weird to me to be so new to a miniatures game as to not even be able to definitively recognize an opposing faction’s models. Also, I actually saw very little of his army because they all hid behind buildings and then popped out just enough to shoot from cover.

Why are we fighting over this shanty town again?!?!

Why are we fighting over this shanty town again?!?!

One small note is I should paint the front arc on the base of my models. Steve seems to have done that on his. Most of the models are pretty clear about which way they’re facing so it’s not a huge thing, but it’s a nice touch. Facing is important for critical game mechanics like taking opportunistic shots at troops moving around, so it’s nice to make the front arc completely unambiguous.

The enemy!

The enemy!

The game I think is pretty good. I’m not sure what to make of the rulebook. Previous editions I didn’t think were written very well, though some of that could be the translation. So far this edition is hard to gauge. It seems like many things are left unsaid or a bit ambiguous. But that could just be me not having a grasp of both the core mechanics and presentation style. The book does seem to have somewhat formal and systematic language around models being in particular states and so on, which is promising. Clearly though the game encompasses a million little fiddly abilities and a good number of stats, many of which seem like they may not come up all that often. There’s a lot going on, and a lot of interactions.

Overall though, the core mechanics are obviously fun and very tactical. They play out quite different from many miniatures games, and especially 40k. Infinity is hyper-focused on line of sight and sniping. I knew to expect that, but it was interesting to fool around and start to actually get a feel for how it plays out. For example, a bunch of regular troopers caught in the open really should not engage in a firefight with a sniper at long range in cover. That’s… actually pretty realistic? Similarly, charging with your sword against a guy pointing a shotgun your way is probably not going to work out well. That’s… even more realistic?

Holding down the right flank.

Holding down the right flank.

In the end Steve rolled us off the table in a straightforward annihilation mission. Knights on the right flank got wiped out moving forward aggressively toward close combat. Order sergeants made a serious thrust up the center but all got put away by a sniper camped out in the backfield. On the left the Highlanders got a bunch of kills with their machine guns as enemy troops parachuted in all around them, but were eventually themselves tagged. The final moments came down to a lone sergeant in high tech camouflage sniping from the rooftops, but an enemy doctor was able to creep around a building out of sight and save the downed troops, who then overwhelmed the sniper and eliminated Colin and I from the game.

So, in the end, I’m pretty excited about playing more Infinity. Definitely a substantial learning curve just to pick up all the core rules, let alone all the common abilities and weapons. But it’s a fun game and the skirmish style right up my alley.

Pop, pop!

Pop, pop!

Alternate Scouts WIP

A Reddit user asked about alternate Space Marine Scout builds, so these are some I’m working on.

My personal take is that the Scout models are actually pretty good. It’s just the chunky heads that don’t work very well. So one idea is just to replace the heads, a simple swap which changes and improves the look quite a bit. Examples I’m going with, from left to right: A Cadian helmet, two Scion helmets, and a standard Scout head with a visor (which I think looks ok, it’s less flat-faced):

IMG_20160417_090048The Scion helmets in particular I think look really good.

What I’m doing for that group’s sergeant is even more distinct though still just a couple simple, readily available swaps—Scion arms, legs, and helmet, with a Cadian voxcaster backpack, and a Space Marine torso:

IMG_20160417_090056

I’m really happy with how that guy is turning out. The lighter armor and cloth of the Scion arms and legs combined with the armor and bulk of the Space Marine chest plate does a really good job of representing the Scout T4 Sv4+ stat line. The voxcaster is just a bit bigger than I’d like, but highlights their role as a scouting & recon unit. And the Scion helmet fits in with Space Marines by being closed and menacing looking, but appropriately for a scout feeling slimmer and more mobile than a standard Tactical helmet.